Mary
Among my thirty seven cousins all but three are younger than I. My father is the oldest of twelve children, so when his own father fled to Sudan in an effort to avoid having to declare bankruptcy, my dad became, at sixteen, the man of the house to his brothers and sisters, some as young as infants. I spent my elementary school weekends at my uncle’s middle and high school sporting events. At the frequent family gatherings, I cooed over and was entrusted with the care of newborn cousins.
In everyone’s family, the older relations are forever seeing their own childhoods replayed by the children who surround them. Occupying, as I did, a gray area between generations at a time of turmoil in my large extended family, I was the recipient of perhaps more of this attention than most children receive. I basked in it. Someday, I would tell knowing stories about my younger years.
As a teenager, eating meals with the adults, privy to the women’s discussions of perineal cuts vs tears, taking my cues on the consumption of music and literature and pop culture from my now college aged uncles; I noticed a cousin, the first day old baby I ever saw, do something as a seven year old that I knew I had done, and I told whoever was in the room something I’d heard adults say about me my whole life, something that had always seemed a compliment to both parties, the web that kept us together, established the importance of our extensive collective root system.
“Oh, look at that, Andy is just like me.”
His mother, Mary, my favorite aunt, stopped dead in whatever task she’d been engaged in, looking stricken and horrified, as if I were the evil fairy condemning him to be pricked by a spinning wheel and fall down dead in his youth.
“Don’t ever say that.”
The best thing about not being a teenager anymore is that it is no longer socially acceptable to treat me like a pariah. For a few years there, my family could get away with disparaging me as a symbol, as an inheritor of their fathers sickness. Now they have to pretend to respect me.
My Aunt Mary has been a dairy farmer for most of the time I can remember. Her farm was a magical place of refuge during my childhood. I spent summer weeks and school year weekends there, caring for kittens and babies and cows, admiring the bubbly happiness her life seemed infused with, despite their crushing poverty. She stands as an example of the joys available when one does work one loves, even underpaid, underappreciated, physically draining, never ending work. She may be the happiest person I know.
My extended family was a source of intense joy and pride in my childhood. Despite the costs and inconveniences, I come home across hundreds of miles for the major holidays, I endure their snide questions, their condescension. I miss how much they used to love me.
Aunt Mary and I attended a small dinner party at my parent’s home this weekend. Over the winter, she and her husband sold all their cows and are in the midst of starting up a small scale vertically integrated goat cheese operation. I did some research at the time on marketing opportunities, put her in touch with some CSAs, told her what I know about how these things have been successful in New England. We talked a long time then about our hopes and dreams, about the simultaneously abysmal and exciting state of small scale agriculture. It was the sort of conversation I’d dreamed for years of having with her.
A few days ago, I found out that, having not yet been certified to sell their chevre, my aunt and her husband are pouring gallons of goat milk down the drain everyday. I told her I would buy whatever she had on hand. We emptied four gallons in to the containers I bought just or that purpose, though she refused to take money form me in exchange for these fruits of her livelihood.
Today, angry again at my malfunctioning camera, I am preparing to heat the milk to 185 degrees and add 1 quarter cup vinegar for every gallon. When the milk seizes into a stringy curd, I will strain it through a cheese cloth for an hour. Sunlight will hit the dripping whey just so, as the sink is in front of a beautiful window, but you, kind readers, are denied that picture, this time because I dropped the damn camera and an apparently integral piece actually flew off.
No, in fact, the sun has already moved, as it is wont to do. By the time I get back from buying the cheesecloth and finish cleaning the kitchen, the spot over the sink will be only indirectly lit. The queso blanco will not sparkle as it firms, the image I’ve just painted you will never exist. It is a perpetual heartbreak, it is the reason I take pictures: the light is always shifting, nothing will ever be the same.









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